GoSwim GoldBike gearing and other bike topics
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Continued from here:
Chris, I counted out the teeth on my cranks and cassette cogs.
On the cassette, the cogs have the following number of teeth:
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Also continued from previous thread (linked in above post): I know that the rider is more important than the bike. I beat people on better bikes. But if my bike were lighter, I'm sure that would help me be faster than I am on a heavier bike. I don't ride my bike to the pool very often, and I can't see putting a front or rear rack on my road bike, which is the only really rideable bike I have at the moment. I train my butt off. I'm trying to get stronger and be the best rider I can be. |
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off the batt your legs do not need 11. 12. 13 . Totally wrong. I'll set up a gear ratio for you eliminating 2 of those cogs. So now count the front chain ring teeth. You must have 2 so count both. and look behind your crank. (the crank is) The pedal is attached to a crank and goes to the bottom bracket. what is the stamped number. If no number is present find a mm ruler and measure from the center bottom bracket axle to the pedal axle. I'm now guessing 155mm. I'm going to make you FLY!!!! Just need some more details.... and remember were buying a used frame and upgrading what you have. I will take you thru the steps on this. Just like learning a flip turn.
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do you want the Big sur hill climb 3%-6% incline for rear cog sizes. I'll have them on Monday when I speak with my friend. bike kicks butt. We passed racers with 20 pounds in our panneriers. Let you know the cogs for a hill race. What other race are u looking at? Incline race or just dragging? |
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50 to large for you. 9 to small for you. Will be notching down that 50 to about 42. And that 9 will become 11 or 12 or 13 and ramping up straight to 16. Than we talk flat out power. after I figure in your crank size. and what is the wheel dia and tire size is? We can finish this. so
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Sorry for all the last minute questions. What is your current frame size? and are your forks and headset 1 1/8 with a euro bottom bracket? euro bottom bracket means the cranks are held in place in a bracket. small in diameter. threaded into the frame. (Yeah tech Stuff) sorry, Try to find the size. they come in 150mm to 180mm I think your stance could be wider on your bike giving you more power. Do you feel That your cleats are to close to the inner bike? Let me know. |
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I'm sorry. I'm not looking to spend money on my bike right at this time. I thought you were offering friendly advice. Sorry for being a little slow on the uptake. I also don't know why you would say I don't need the 11, 12, 13. Or the 50 on my crank. I need a bike that works in a wide variety of situations. I ride hills, sure. But I also ride flats and downhills. And sometimes I think I don't have gears good enough for going faster on flats and the like (I max out my speed there and can't go any faster). Not sure I want a cassette designed specifically for hill riding. I guess the bottom line is I need to understand why I'm making changes before I make any changes. Not really sure what my racing schedule will look like for 2012. Right now Vineman 70.3 in July is the only race I have picked and registered for (that uses a bike). |
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Sheila, basically, large chain ring (front cogs) small sprocket (rear cogs) used for flat / downhill, providing you can keep it turning. Small chain ring, large sprockets for climbing, which I am sure you have already worked out, is the basics for what you need to know. However, with so many gears there are a lot of combinations that will duplicate the difficulty to push the pedals round. If you were a serious 'racing cyclist' you would have all the kit to allow you to change the gearing for different events. Ride what you feel comfortable for the moment and, as you grow in experience (and if you have the desire) get a local specialist shop to guide you through the equipment maze. What Chris has said is absolutely right in terms of kit but if spending on it is an issue, and who isn't feeling the pinch at the moment, learn to make best use of what you have. Most importantly for me is to get somebody to set up your position better for you on the bike so you are more comfortably able to get the best power output on what you have. |
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Thanks, GW. Of course, as you suspect, I do understand that the large chain ring and small cogs are for flats, etc... What you say about duplication makes sense. I had heard that before, but forgotten. But I even notice it myself. So it makes sense you could remove/replace some cogs to get a wider range by removing duplicates. Yes, I would prefer when I actually get to this point, to go through it with a local shop. That's how I feel most comfortable. Not sure I'm quite at that point, yet. Maybe coming into this next season. We'll see. I'm finally starting to ride with a group of experienced cyclists regularly (found a group whose rides fit my schedule fairly well) and I expect that is going to help a lot, too, as far as me learning more about the mechanics of my bike just through exposure to and participation in their discussions. I have had a professional fitting for my bike. That was over a year ago. And before I got my aero bars. I remember mentioning to someone (don't recall who, now) that now that I had aerobars I would probably need to get a fit done again, and that person (someone knowledgeable about cycling) didn't seem to think it was necessary. I do know, however, that the fit I had done was not an aggressive fit...it leaned more towards the comfort side with some attention to power. But yeah, I feel like I could extend my legs more in the pedal stroke, so not sure... |
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Hi Sheila I was thinking of your bike while swimming today. 1st. for weight loss you only need 2 front chain rings. 2nd your rear cog set is a norm for flat racing. riders that do 35mph plus. What is your average on flat? 21mph? So If I am correct, you want a bike that can handle flats and hills. your rear should be 13-29. 1 tooth gain or loss between each cog is not efficient. A Shimano rear cassette of 13-29 Is a thought. Now when you talk gears you need to understand gear ratio. An example is front 44t rear 12t is a ratio of 70.6. front 51t rear 14t is a ratio of 70.1. Almost the same but why have a 51t and 14t? more weight on the chain links and more weight on the chain rings. Bigger is not better.
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